Adios Naxos!

Got to beautiful, sweet, tranquil Naxos last night and feel seriously at ease being away from island "tourism" here. The past few days in Santorini were a real wind-whirl. From swimming in impressively high red cliffed beaches to stomping through archeological sites of prehistoric villages, we needed these two recoup days before hitting up party town Mykonos. 

I did eat some delightful meals before leaving Santorini that are worth sharing. When perusing through Kamari, a way popular black beach lined with resto after resto, we found a traditional taverna that caught my eye with great deals on grilled sardines. Needing my fish fix, I gobbled the 12 full sardines like a champ and washed it down with a couple glasses of white wine. I also had a fabulous pizza on a rooftop hidden in one of the tourist filled alleyways in Fira that is worth mentioning. The view was phenomenal and the pizza dough was perfectly chewy and I could just not get enough. 

My first meal in Naxos was a bit of a disappointment though. I ordered the seafood risotto in the cutest little taverna along the port and was saddened to see my seafood already removed from their shells and the rice not as tender as it should be. This is when my food snob self comes into play, but it was still tasty. Justin's dish of mixed meats was fantastic though. What a gentleman giving me some of his sausage. 

The next day we rented a scooter and travelled around the island to the beautiful powder white sand beach of Plaka. This is long strip of beach after beach with so many choices for stationing. After a long beach day and a couple sanctuary visits, we were both hungry little hippos. We chose another cute taverna along the port where all products come from the owners farm and the fish is fresh from that day. I decided on the special of that evening which was a traditional Greek meal: fish with soup. Sounds a bit plain, but it was bursting with flavour! I was presented with the entire red snapper glazed in lemon, olive oil, and local spices with a side of homegrown potatoes (which tasted like pure butter. Never have I fallen in love with potatoes like these before!). The soup was a broth with rice that the fish had simmered in and tasted of fresh lemon and herbs. Honestly, this was prob my favorite meal of this trip. I "oh-ed" and "aw-ed" the entire meal through and thanked the farmers son for his recommendation. The meal was completed with a wonderful orange zest cake & raki with honey, all courtesy of the owner.

Did I mention how great the continental breakfast was in Naxos? The Greek Yogurt was the best I ever had. It's thick like consistency gave it a cheesecake feel but with such soft flavours. I went back for four servings with home brewed honey drizzled on top. Fat kids love their honey. 

Before leaving to Mykonos, I made sure to buy some local products from a cute traditional store that we passed several times. I was like an over active child in a candy shop! There were barrels of spices, herbs, teas and fresh cheeses everywhere! I stocked up on rose buds, green tea, chamomile flowers, lavender, eucalyptus leaves, olive oil soaps, sea body sponges, a 1.5 litre of white wine (only 3 euros), and some homemade wrinkle cream (haha I know what Besty Mel is thinking!). All this for $27 euros. 

Little deal seaker I am. Going to make my own tea blend back at home! No more overpriced David's Tea for me.

Xo domappetit  

    Red Beach in Santorini, the swimming can get a bit wild but it's worth it!

    Closer view at the red sand... Pretty cool huh?

    Yummy buttery spinach pie snack

    Kamari Beach grilled sardines & veg

    Destroyed it! The local kitties were begging for those bones!

    The last meal in Santorini... Pizza & Greek salad --- the caldera view in the background!! 

    Seafood risotto with an ouzo lemon & dill sauce. 

    Justin's meat plate that I snatched a few bites of...

    My beauty red snapper in a lemon oil glaze... Soup & Mythos on the side.

    Fab continental breaky in Naxos. Greek yogurt & honey obsessed.

    Adios Naxos ...

Exploring Santorini's Best

Yesterday we sailed out to visit Santorini's visible active volcano (the other one is under sea level and is of greater concern to the people here) and swim in the hot springs. The hot springs are unreachable by boat so we had to dive into the ocean and swim to them which was quite the feat. They had the reddest mud there that you could bathe in at the risk of tainting your bikini a prime ant brownish red. Of course I was one of the few to roll around in it like a little piggy. We then took some time to lounge around the island of Thirassa, which was once connected to Santorini but detached when the volcano went off 400 some years ago. Our adventure ended in Oia to watch the sunset, wine in hand. This was by far the best sunset I have ever seen. Sorry gang, but I was cheapity-cheap yesterday and made my own sandwich with fresh cheese, salami & mortedella (not pic worthy). No dinner either since we were too busy partying it up with ouzo at a body paint party. 

Today we rented a quad (4-wheeler) and have been driving around the island checking out the black sand beaches. Nested at Perissa on lounging chairs, soaking in the rays. Definitely wondering how I could live like this permanently. After a few hours of sun bathing we hit up Bouteri, which is one of 5 top wineries in the world, for some wine tasting. For dining we heard great things about Mama's House, a resto down the street from our suite, so we headed there to feast. And what a feast it was. For starters we shared grilled octopus in a balsamic sauce accompanied by fresh bread and a cheese, whipped butter and spice mixture. For my main the waiter suggested I try the Baked Lamb (Kleftiko) with fettuccine in a homemade tomato sauce. The lamb was melt in your mouth good - literally falling off the bone at every touch with my fork. The sauce was delicious with baby olives and whole peppercorns. I could have licked that plate clean, but I think I embarrassed Justin enough by sucking the marrow out of my lamb bone lol. We opted out on dessert because I had my eye on this pistachio cake soaked in local honey at a bakery down the street. Mama Mia, me belly full!

Xo dom appetit! 

    Not nearly at the top of the volcano but had to share this shot of our boat on the right and the different colours of the water & rock due to the eruption 

 Sunset over Oia - this is not even close to how mesmerizing this sunset was

 

    Paint Party Action! The one and only night we mustered enough energy to hit the town 

    Black Sand Beach - Perissa

    Octopus in balsamic - yum yum 

    Slow cooked lamb on a bed of tomato fettuccine --- ridic. 

    Pistachio cake in honey... xox

Gorgeous Gorges & George's

Wow, time to give you guys a quick recap on the past three days. Firstly, we did make it to the Samaria gorges and let me tell you, this ain't no easy hike. When we heard it takes 6 hours to get from point A to B, we thought for sure we could make it in three. Well, five sun scorching hours in and our smiles began to fade but we did experience one of the most spectacular views and wilderness in all our vacations. We found it comparable to the path of the gods in Positano, except this hike had fresh running spring water all the way down that you could fill your bottles up with. After 18 km's of hiking we made it to the bottom and enjoyed a sea view lunch that was well deserved. I ordered a hefty plate of stuffed tomatoes, peppers & vine leaves and Justin had the gyro platter. These were both exceptionally tasty but I had to request a plate of tzaziki to dip it in. It's just so darn good here! *Quick shout out to our amazing hosts at the Vranas Rooms in Old Chania: Aleksandra, Nicos & Georges. You guys were great!!!!*

We left Crete for Santorini yesterday and this was quite the ordeal. The agent who sold us our tickets for the speed boat accidentally sold us tickets for August!! So we got kicked off the boat after finally getting comfortable and found out there were no more boats till the next day! Drama. I was not about to head back to Chania so I stood at the side of the boat, sad faced with our big fat luggages and the captain finally came to us and said that he had two empty seats that we could take. Thank god! Our arrival to Santorini was perfection. The hotel picked us up no stress and we spent the afternoon walking around Fira. There are postcard worthy picture opportunities on every corner. We caught our first sunset over the Calderon (breathtaking) and headed over to a resto near our hotel which served free wine with dinner. They had me at Free... By this point I was starving so I ordered the most calorie filled and richest item on the menu: moussaka. For those of you who are not familiar with this dish, it is sort of like Shepard pie but with no corn. This dish consists of lots of heavy cream, potatoes, eggplant and minced meat. I gobbled down my plate and ate four slices of home baked bread drenched in olive oil. I could barely move after this and Justin had to force me to walk it off. I  definitely slept like a log that night.

Xo dom appetit

PS. Our hotel room is absolutely lovely. Our balcony is facing the town and we have an ocean view and most impressively, the bed and pillows are cushiony heaven. Wanna take them home with me!

    The first natural spring water we reached

    Still smiling, sore feet - 13 km's in

    My generous plate of stuffed vine leaves, tomatoes & green peppers

    Our apartment in Santorini

    First sunset over the Calderon

    Mussaka time!!! 

Pink Sands & Hilltop Dining

Leave it to my hubs and I to forget to set our alarms and sleep in. We were supposed to get our buns out of bed at 5am in order to beat the crowds to the gorges for our 6 hour hike. Instead we woke up hastily at 1pm and had to plan B it to the beach. Not just any beach my friends, the magnificent pink sand beach Elafonisi. Since this trek through the mountains required a car, we booked it to the nearest rental and hit the road. 

This drive is definitely for thrill seekers and not for the faint of heart. My heart was racing most of the time since you are winding up and down the edge of the mountains. No gates, no walls, just you, the dirt roads, and the crazy head on traffic. But what a beautiful experience. The plush mountains full of wild goats and blossoming flowers really takes your breathe away. 

The beach deserves it's own blog, but I know we are really here to discuss the food so I'll give you a quick description: most mythical beach I have ever been to. Clear waters, mountainous backgrounds, pink sand. Enough said.

Now for the dining: we rode up probably the scariest most winded road I have ever seen to get to a small village built on a mountain top called Milia (Even after driving the Amalfi Coast, I found myself clenching my teeth and holding my breathe). This village consists of a handful of homes and an Eco-friendly restaurant. They specialize in making everything from scratch: wine, olive oil, cheese, meats, jams, ect. We purposely chose a seat out on their balcony so we can watch the sun go down on the flourishing landscape. Our modest waiter/owner came out to greet us with a small menu written on his paper pad. He listed off about 10 items and we decided to give him the carte Blanche on our order. Homemade white & red wine with fresh bread to start, quickly followed by a plate of cheese & spinach pies with zucchini fritters. The flavours and fresh herbs used to create these dishes were so tasty and we were full after just the apps!! After a few minutes of awing the environment, we were presented with two entrees: a marinated beef with roasted veggies and a plate of slow roasted goat & veggies. The waiter suggested since the meat is so fresh and has not been mistreated, that we can eat everything, including the fat. Haha, I took his advice and have a feeling I shouldn't be wearing a bikini for the rest of the trip... But my god, the most tender meat (falling off the bone and melting in your mouth) and simplest flavours I have had in a while. Brings you back to the basics - no frills. Just real simple and delightful cooking. 

Thankfully dessert was a bowl of ravishing strawberries with syrup and of course, the ever so fateful Raki. We graciously thanked our host and hit the road before the sun beat us down the mountains. 

Driving home I had to stop to pick up some locally made olive oil and found the most magical stand on the edge of a cliff. The owner of the stand made me try every single flavoured Raki he had (banana, orange, lemon, pomegranate, honey) and his mothers homemade jams. The sucker for figs that I am, grabbed a large bottle of it & a bottle of his best olive oil. I also snagged a pic with him in his traditional Cretan wear and his pet Kri-Kri. 

World Cup starts tonight and I am being forced to have some ouzo on a seaside patio "watching" the game with anticipation along side my fellow Cretans! Go Brasil!!! 

Xo dom appetit 

    Elafonisi - Clear water & pink sands

    From scratch cheese pies, spinach pies and zucchini fritters

    Slow cooked goat & herbs w veggies

    Marinated beef & veggies 

    Us on balcony of hilltop resto 

    Inside resto view --- so quaint!!

    And lastly, me and my oils dealer!

    Breathtaking view from our drive... 

Scooters, Monks & Stew

Sadly, my camera died yesterday and I did not have time to get an adaptor until late evening, so no food pics (sad face). We spent the day wondering through two ancient monasteries, hiking down the Rocky Mountains to the caves that the monks once inhabited. They now brew their own wine and extra virgin olive oil to raise money for the community. I bought a bottle of Cabernet which I drank that evening on my balcony. 

We went for a late dinner (like 11pm, when in Greece eat like the Greeks) at a Taverna called Semiramis in a hidden alley. The food was so authentic and there was the most romantic live music being sung by three old Greek men. Of course we were greeted with the usual fresh bread and bowl of local olives. I was feeling some comfort food so ordered a bowl of vegetable stew. I know you are thinking, stew? Really dom? But yes, the stew was divine! It was filled with local produce: courgettes, aubergine and carrots. I slopped that plate up with a warm piece of homemade bread. Once again, the Cretens never disappoint with their FREE dessert and Raki. We were served four deep fried donuts rolled in honey and cinnamon with ice cream in the middle. 

Definitely went to bed happy. I can't believe the only picture I have to share with you is the first steps of our pilgrimage down to the caves...

Xo domappetit 

PS. I forgot to mention that we rented a scooter for the day and rolled down to this gorgeous beach where we ate out on their patio. Cheese pies, salad with fresh onions and Greek style mashed potatoes with two Mythos. Mmmmm...

    The start to our sweaty pilgrimage 

    The view from our balcony... Tres romantique! 

    The cutest little blue chairs ever. I just had to share! 

Chestnuts, Olives & Pannacotta

The sun is now setting here in Chania (pronounced Ha-Nia), Crete,  and I am laying here on one of the local beaches debating on where to head for dinner. Our three week Greek & Turkish adventure began yesterday in Athens, which feels like ages ago with my jet lag still unsettled. We managed to visit the magnificent & ancient agora gardens, climb the Acropolis, and stuff 2 (yes, 2!) pork gyros stuffed with French fries down into our bellies. Hands down best darn gyros we've ever had. The Greek Gods must have something to do with that tzaziki sauce. 

Ok, it's time to share today's culinary deets with you. Upon arriving to the vast and plush island of Crete, more specifically the Venetian Harbour style Chania, where we will be nesting for the next three days, we were greeted by our lovely host with Freshly Squeezed Orange Juice. I cannot emphasize how good that juice tasted in that moment. With our bellies rumbling for lunch we took to the cobble stoned streets to check out a local resto known for their modern atmosphere and traditional Greek eats. Since my Greek is a bit rusty, we passed by it about 3 times before asking a local for assistance. 

Walking into this haven we were immediately at ease and feeling the warmth. The hipster looking young chef came up to the front and didn't waste any time showing us the day's specials by opening each cooking pot and allowing us to really sense & smell each dish. Overwhelmed by all the choices, we asked for his suggestions and he put together a simple but fine feast for us. Firstly, we received a basket full of freshly baked bread (warm moist centre & crusty exterior), the greenest olive oiI have ever seen, and a bowl of marinated olives. He then brought us our main dishes. Justin gobbled down BBQ chicken thighs with rice & potatoes with a side of moussaka. As for myself, I had a plate of the most beautiful hand stuff zucchini flowers with rice and dill, and a plate of slow roasted chestnuts & mushrooms with baby onions. It was so mouth watering good that I had to soak up the leftover sauce with a second basket of bread. Finally, we asked for the bill and were surprised with a small craft of Raki (a Cretian liquor) and a ridiculously delicious Pannacotta. I can definitely get used to this people. Chat soon....more to come. 

Xo domappetit!

PS. We ended up eating along the harbour with a spectacular view of the lighthouse. I had a more than generous portion of fresh grilled calamari with Greek salad. Loving Chania. 

    Fresh Orange Juice outside out studio

    Stuffed zucchini blossoms w rice & dill

    Pannacotta 

    Where we had this spectacular lunch 

    My seaside fresh grilled calamari. Big enough for 2 people! 

    Stuck this one in for fun! Haha jealous?